Garlic

Introduction

Garlic is one of the easiest and most reliable crops for UK gardeners. Hardy, low-maintenance, and hugely rewarding, it fits seamlessly into beds, borders, and even containers. With a range of flavours - from soft, mellow bulbs to punchy hard neck types - garlic is a staple worth growing at home.

Success comes down to choosing the right variety for your climate, planting at the correct time, and giving it a spot with plenty of sun and free-draining soil.

Types and Timing

Garlic falls into two main categories:

Softneck - Traditional for the UK climate. Best for long storage, produces many cloves, and doesn’t usually form a flowering stem.

Hardneck - Produces fewer, larger cloves with stronger flavour. Sends up a central flower stalk (scape) which can be harvested and eaten. Slightly less tolerant of wet conditions but great for colder regions.

Elephant garlic: Not a true garlic - actually a type of leek - but produces very large, mild cloves.

Timing:

• Plant garlic cloves outdoors from October to January (autumn planting gives the best results).

• Spring planting varieties can go in from February to March.

• Harvest typically runs from late June to August, depending on variety and planting time.

• Planting a mix of autumn and spring garlic provides a longer harvest period.

Site and Soil Requirements

Garlic thrives in sun and well-drained ground:

Light:
Choose a spot with full sun - 6+ hours a day encourages larger bulbs.

Soil:
Light, crumbly, free-draining soil enriched with compost. Avoid heavy, waterlogged beds which cause rot.

Containers:
Use a pot at least 20–25 cm deep with good drainage holes. Fill with multipurpose compost mixed with horticultural grit.

Shelter:
Wind isn’t usually a problem, but avoid low, boggy areas where winter moisture collects.

Propagation & Planting

Choosing cloves:
Use certified seed garlic (not supermarket bulbs) to avoid disease and ensure proper adaptation to UK conditions.

Preparation:
Gently break bulbs apart into individual cloves just before planting. Keep the papery skins intact.

Planting depth:
Plant each clove 2–3 cm deep, pointed end up.

Spacing:
Allow 15 cm between cloves and 30 cm between rows.

Spring planting:
For later plantings, improve drainage further with grit or raised beds to help compensate for shorter growing time.

Cold requirement:
Garlic needs a period of cold to trigger bulb formation, which is why autumn planting gives the best yields.

Growing & Maintenance

Watering:
Keep soil lightly moist in spring and early summer. Reduce watering as bulbs swell; stop completely 2–3 weeks before harvest.

Feeding:
Apply a general-purpose feed in early spring, then a high-nitrogen feed if growth seems weak. Mulching with compost also helps.

Weeding:
Garlic hates competition. Keep beds weed-free throughout the season.

Scapes (for hard neck types):
Remove scapes once they start curling. This redirects energy back into bulb development. Scapes are edible and delicious.

Mulching:
Apply straw, leaves, or compost through winter to suppress weeds and protect developing roots.

General care:
Avoid damaging the stems - garlic won’t recover well if bent or bruised.

Harvest and Post-Harvest

Timing:
Garlic is ready when the lower leaves turn brown but 4–6 upper leaves are still green. This usually happens June–August.

Lifting:
Use a fork to gently ease bulbs out; don’t pull by the stems.

Curing:
Lay bulbs somewhere dry, airy, and out of direct sun for 2–4 weeks. Curing is essential for good storage.

Storage:
After curing, trim roots and stems. Store in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place. Soft necks store longest—often up to 9 months.

Using fresh garlic:
Freshly lifted (uncured) garlic has a juicier texture and milder flavour - great for cooking straight away. You can even eat them raw, if you're brave!

Troubleshooting & Pests

White rot:
A serious fungal disease causing yellowing and rotten bulbs. Remove affected plants and avoid growing alliums in the same area for many years. Anecdotally, mulching the area may help fix the soil quicker.

Rust:
Common in wet summers, showing as orange pustules on leaves. Improve airflow, avoid overhead watering, and remove heavily affected foliage.

Poor bulb development:
Often due to planting too late, shade, or compacted soil. Ensure cloves get winter chill and plenty of spring light.

Yellowing leaves:
Could be nutrient deficiency (especially nitrogen) or water stress. Apply a spring feed and maintain even moisture.

Birds pulling cloves up:
Cover beds with fleece after planting until shoots establish.

Why are my bulbs small?
Late planting, lack of sun, or overcrowding are the usual culprits.

Tips from Growers / FAQs

Best for beginners:
Softneck varieties like ‘Solent Wight’ or ‘Messidrome’.

Regional notes:
Colder northern areas often do well with hardneck types; southern regions favour softneck for storage.

Can I plant supermarket garlic?
You can, but it may carry disease and often isn’t suited to UK growing conditions. Certified seed garlic is safer and more reliable.

Do I need to rotate crops?
Yes - avoid planting garlic or any alliums in the same spot for at least 3 years.

Growing in clay soil?
It's possible, but you may wish to try raised beds or containers with added grit for drainage.

Can garlic be grown indoors?
Not really - bulb formation requires cold periods and strong light.

Resources & References

• RHS: Grow Your Own Garlic

• BBC Gardeners’ World: Garlic Growing Guide